Pilgrimage In the Midst of the Refugee Crisis
September 21, 2015 1 Comment
Six months ago when a friend and I began planning a trip to two resort areas in Europe, refugees coming to Europe were not on our radar. Only days before our journey did we begin to take notice. We arrived in Germany and passed through Munich, traveling by train, a day or two after 40,000 migrants had arrived there from Austria, but as we awaited a train to Austria, we didn’t see evidence of the crisis occurring in that city. It was only later, after we had arrived at our destination in the Alps south of Salzburg, that we saw on television that officials in Munich were feeling overwhelmed and were asking their government to intervene.
The next day we learned that Germany was putting border controls in place to limit the flow of migrants. We went into Salzburg and asked officials at the train station what that would mean for our planned travel back into and across Germany on Friday. That day the man we spoke with said that high speed trains were still running. He said things could change by the hour and suggested we check back later in the week.
Following that advice, when we were again in Salzburg a few days later, we checked once more. This time we were told that no trains were allowed to cross the border from Austria to Germany. We could, however, cross into Germany at Freilassing. At the time we didn’t know where that was, and the official was not inclined to explain. The desk clerk back at our hotel turned out to be more helpful, looking online and explaining that we would have to go to Salzburg by train, then take a taxi or bus to the border town, cross the border, and then catch the train again.
During our several trips through the Salzburg train station, I had noticed some differences from an earlier visit to the city. First was that there were many more people in the station, many just sitting around. Another was a high police presence. And finally, the plaza outside the station was filled with Red Cross tents. One day I saw police escort a small group of people toward a waiting bus.
On Friday, the day we were to leave Austria, we got an early start as we had been advised. We arrived at the Salzburg train station and checked again. We would have to go to Freilassing. Outside, we found a taxi. The driver didn’t really want to go to Freilassing because of the congested traffic. It wasn’t that far – about five kilometers north, but he could not estimate how long it would take. He agreed to take us though he mentioned several times the “waste of time due to traffic.”
As we traveled and waited in traffic, we talked with the driver. He himself had come to Austria from Somalia fifteen years ago because of that country’s wars. “Life is good here,” he said of Austria. It was not good in Somalia.
We crossed the border on a bridge where police stopped every vehicle and checked passengers. In our case our driver just rolled down the windows so the police could see us. They gave an okay and we soon arrived at the train station. Our taxi fare was thirty euros. An American couple we met there had come by bus, probably cheaper, but they had to wait for the police to board the bus and check travel documents of Middle Eastern-looking people.
At the train station in Freilassing again there were police and several soldiers. Groups of people were being guided to a spot where they were boarding buses or waiting for the next bus. On the platform tables with food, clothing, and what looked like sleeping mats stood near the station door. A train was waiting. We were struggling with our luggage on stairs trying to get to the right place. Two young German soldiers came up and carried our bags and put them on the train for us. The travelers getting on the train seemed to be primarily tourists. Migrants seemed to be directed to buses.
Our journey from that point on to Stockholm, Sweden was relatively un- eventful. There we had a few hours before the train to our destination during which we had a good meal. Then we found our way to a platform where we were to get the train. As we waited, a large group of people arrived accompanied by police and several other people who appeared to be guiding and interpreting. We soon realized these were among the many migrants. The group was more men than women, but there were several families with young children and one older woman. Our train turned out to be running about two hours late so we had a long wait with the group. We watched the toddlers running around and observed how the migrants acted as a community in keeping them from danger. When Red Cross workers came through giving them snacks and juice boxes for the children, I took out my cell phone to take a picture of the children. Several men sitting on the floor near where we were sitting on a bench took notice. One in particular wanted his picture taken. He helped me make a selfie of myself and him. He spoke a little English, so we began a communication. We learned that the group was headed to Finland and mimicked coming from a much warmer climate to a cold one. Individuals in the group looked tired, as we were also. It was late at night. We had a sleeper compartment booked. I think our fellow travelers were just eager for a train. They also looked happy and excited to be on their way and patient in their waiting for the train.
I reflected as we were experiencing all this on how alike we all were there for a couple hours, a long way from home, sitting in the cold waiting for a very late train and not knowing when or if it was going to come. Yet for my friend and me, the destination was a resort hotel and then a return home to our lives in the US. Our fellow travelers were leaving, possibly forever, what they had known as home and were going to an entirely new and very different place in hopes of making a home.
They train finally came and we all scrambled to find the cars we were to be in. Somewhere during the night, part of the train separated carrying the migrants on toward Finland. Our part got a different engine and went deeper into Sweden. But we keep wondering about the continuing journey of our fellow travelers of that evening.